The Last Bass Outpost
Gear Discussion Forums => Gibson Basses => Topic started by: gibran on April 24, 2012, 12:01:22 AM
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Hi everybody,
Like the title says I might have a problem with the bridge. I bought a Les Paul bass Oversized. Few days ago I looked at the bass side of bridge and noticed that it is kinda curved towards neck side. The bridge has its bolts outside the body. Maybe it was that way before and I simply didn't noticed it.
Any help would be much appreciated.
http://forum.megabass.it/files/posted_images/14017/immagine_004.jpg
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Hi Gibran, welcome.
I'm not sure what your question/problem is
Could you post pictures to illustrate what you're saying?
cheers,
Rob
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The tailpiece inserts are coming out of the body!
Is the link working now? Thank you.
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I see it in the pic. The inserts are coming out and the tailpiece is leaning forward about 20 degrees. This shouldn't be happening.
I'd send the bass back for repair under warranty.
If this was an old bass without warranty, I'd just take the inserts out, stick a couple of toothpicks to narrow the holes, and force the tailpiece inserts back in with a soft face hammer.
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Now I see it.
A very common issue with Gibson and Epiphone basses. Especially the ones with a contoured top.
I'd send the bass back for repair under warranty.
If this was an old bass without warranty, I'd just take the inserts out, stick a couple of toothpicks to narrow the holes, and force the tailpiece inserts back in with a soft face hammer.
No I wouldn't send it back.
The fix is very simple. You can do it easily yourself.
Take the inserts out. Put a little bit of superglue on the inserts and push/hammer them back in.
This exactly what Gibson would do if you'd send it back.
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Hi everybody,
Like the title says I might have a problem with the bridge. I bought a Les Paul bass Oversized. Few days ago I looked at the bass side of bridge and noticed that it is kinda curved towards neck side. The bridge has its bolts outside the body. Maybe it was that way before and I simply didn't noticed it.
Any help would be much appreciated.
http://forum.megabass.it/files/posted_images/14017/immagine_004.jpg
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vj2e1m7Hlgw/TF4Cvg7gwpI/AAAAAAAApfI/3I5QaIZQUVY/s400/LizardMU.gif)
Lieber Patient Gibran, that is the way it was, will be and is supposed to be on these basses, I have one with the same characteristic. It's not an issue of the stud being pulled out (as it sometimes happens on other Gibson models with the three point bridge - as such, please disregard the well-meaning, but ill-led ramblings of my cherished brethren in the posts above, most of the time they actually do know what they are talking about, just not this time ;D), it's as deeply in as it can be, even Mark couldn't get it any deeper :rimshot: (is a "rim-shot" icon here really appropriate? :-[), but simply one of the back of the oversized bass descending rather steeply, thus uncovering the tip of the back of the stud (while the front of the stud sits perfectly on the body surface). A cosmetic issue at most, nothing wrong with the bass or the functionality of the bridge. Nothing is coming out and nothing is tipping forward, no super glue needed, the back part of the body is just lower than the forward part. If the back top of the stud was surface-even with the backpart of the body, the bass' mounted bridge would be slanted upward in neck direction. Gibson could have only prevented it if they had chosen studs with a slanted top matching the descent of the oversize body. Seriously, as we write I believe that the world has other things to worry about.
Other than that, how did you like the play, Mrs Lincoln do you like the bass?
Uwe
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1PzFasEFZh0
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Mine did the same thing. I could easily have fixed it myself, but I'm just plain tired of issues with new instruments. This is a really nice bass and the finish on mine was actually perfect. The choice of this bridge was totally stupid IMHO. They could have done much better. I returned the bass and got something else.
Nothing burns me more than having to fix a brand new instrument. I have only hung in there once with a warranty repair on a brand new bass because the bass (60th. Anniversary Jazz) was a limited run and not available anywhere else.
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Did you have a real "pulled plug"-issue, Herr Doktor, i.e. did yours protrude more than the ones in Gibran's pic?
Plugs, holes, protrusions, studs, rimshots, oversizes, forcing things in - we're with our usual topics here I fear. :rolleyes: Poor Gibran will certainly gain an impression.
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Glad to see you made it here Gibran, I know the Gibson collective here should be a greater help.
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Did you have a real "pulled plug"-issue, Herr Doktor, i.e. did yours protrude more than the ones in Gibran's pic?
Plugs, holes, protrusions, studs, rimshots, oversizes, forcing things in - we're with our usual topics here I fear. :rolleyes: Poor Gibran will certainly gain an impression.
Mine were about at the same stage as Gibran's and were starting to deform the hole as they were pulled forward and up. I don't mean to make it sound like the end of the world! I just don't have as much patience for this stuff as I used to. My personal assessment is the hole is probably just a little too large for the inserts, allowing them to move as the strings put pressure on them.
The dealer should fix it at no charge, not a big deal. If the bass is more than a few months old, the dealer is almost compelled to make out right since Gibson's new policy is to not take any dealer returns over a month or so old (I can't remember the exact time, but it is very short!!!). It really squeezes the dealers and leaves Gibson free to make any sloppy product they like and stick the dealer with it.
Don't get me wrong, this is a great bass, well made and finished. Top of the line really. It's only weakness is the bridge and a shop tech with CA glue can fix it permanently. I'm just a crotchety old fart and didn't want to wait to have it fixed.
The other problem with Gibson these days is they have no stock. My dealer was willing to take mine back and get me something else, but when he called Gibson, they didn't one bass I'd want in stock and no schedule for future builds. I won't go into foreign wood and international laws here. So, i applied it to a new 4003.
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A cosmetic issue at most, nothing wrong with the bass or the functionality of the bridge. Nothing is coming out and nothing is tipping forward, no super glue needed, the back part of the body is just lower than the forward part.
^This. You can see it when you compare the stud of the bridge to the stud of the tail-piece. You can see the flute of the bridge stud is kinda facing west, while that of the tail-piece is facing south-west.............Cap'n.
Being a confirmed SG shape user I haven't noticed what they do on a Les Paul guitar; recess the stud hole a bit?
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One note for those who need to fix this problem if/when encountered:
After having removed the mounting post, I prefer not to put the CA glue on the post before re-inserting it. The reason is that if there's excess glue on the post, it could scrape off and get onto the finish of the instrument.
My recommendation is to use CA glue from a container with a brush, and to brush the glue on the inside surfaces of the hole. Then when the post is inserted, there's no glue on it to scrape off.
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A quality control problem at Gibson?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/davepix/humor/Casablanca_ClaudeRains_Shocked.jpg)
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More a design issue. As I said: The studs can't go any deeper if the hole is drilled perpendicular because the ring around the stud is already flush against the higher part of the body. It's not a stud being pulled out, it's missing wood.
What you guys miss is that these bridges have a separate stringholder which means that there is hardly any front and back pull on the bridge itself, just pressure. if anything should be pulled out then it should be the stringholder. That is the big dif to a three-point or two-point where the bridge itself has to battle against string pull.
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More a design issue. As I said: The studs can't go any deeper if the hole is drilled perpendicular because the ring around the stud is already flush against the higher part of the body. It's not a stud being pulled out, it's missing wood.
Easily fixed by drilling a stepped hole. I do it all the time for neck bolt and string ferrules so they are flush. Apparently beyond Gibson's ability or desire. Body could also be carved flat as needed under bridge and tailpiece area. One of those new fangled CNC machines would make quick work of it.
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Gibson is a God-fearing company. Attempting perfection is always tantamount to sacrilege and inherently doomed. ;D
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Easily fixed by drilling a stepped hole.
They probably drill those holes after the body is finished and the step would be bare wood.
They could just drill the holes perpendicular to the slope of the body, but then it would look like it didn't lay flat.
Anyway, it would be too much trouble for them to change their manufacturing procedure for the handful of basses they build.
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Thanks to all. I greatly appreciate your feedback. I like my bass and I can live with it not being flush. Now I know it's a design flaw, not mine alone. It was better the bridge warwick on the penultimate model Les Paul. Anyway it sounds great!
Can someone (owner of the same bass) post a picture as my? Just to compare, and reassure myself... Regards.
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Too bad. Did this ever happen on the old blob bridge, or the Evertilt? I don't think so.
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Thanks to all. I greatly appreciate your feedback. I like my bass and I can live with it not being flush. Now I know it's a design flaw, not mine alone. It was better the bridge warwick on the penultimate model Les Paul. Anyway it sounds great!
Can someone (owner of the same bass) post a picture as my? Just to compare, and reassure myself... Regards.
A doubting Thomas this Gibran is!!! Feel my wounds ...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v615/uwehornung/IMG-20120425-00005.jpg)
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Too bad. Did this ever happen on the old blob bridge, or the Evertilt? I don't think so.
I had it happen on a couple 3 point Epis, but not a Gibson.
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A doubting Thomas this Gibran is!!! Feel my wounds ...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v615/uwehornung/IMG-20120425-00005.jpg)
Mine looks about the same as Uwe's. I can't help but wonder why they didn't countersink the hole a bit to get it down past the carved top radius...............
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A doubting Thomas this Gibran is!!! Feel my wounds ...
Very very fun! ;D :thumbsup:
Thank you for your patience. Now I Believe.... ;)
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Mine were higher than Uwe's, I should have snapped a picture before I took it back. They were also tilting toward the heel of the neck. I think it's best to watch them closely and it you can detect movement, have it fixed. As for countersinking, a junior designer could have thought of that. Again, someone was asleep at the switch.........
A good preventative move would be using light tension TI strings. Costly, but much less hassle than repairs.
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I had it happen on a couple 3 point Epis, but not a Gibson.
I had the "problem" with both on Epi's & Gibbie's .... I fixed my SG Bass some months ago, but they hold steady on both Supremes 8). On my last run of Epi's I had to fix 3 out of 4 ......
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No doubt this could have been solved better from an esthetic viewpoint. You wouldn't catch a Yamaha, an Ibanez or a Warwick with that type of a makeshift solution.
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No doubt this could have been solved better from an esthetic viewpoint. You wouldn't catch a Yamaha, an Ibanez or a Warwick with that type of a makeshift solution.
Really how much extra would it of been to counter sink them?
One extra step when drilling the holes?
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Really how much extra would it of been to counter sink them?
One extra step when drilling the holes?
A counterbored (flat bottomed stepped) hole can be done in one step with a CNC machine or manually in two steps with a piloted bit. A countersink makes an angled hole.
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A counterbored (flat bottomed stepped) hole can be done in one step with a CNC machine or manually in two steps with a piloted bit. A countersink makes an angled hole.
I don't understand why a countersink makes an angled hole? That doesn't compute in my muddled brain.
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I don't understand why a countersink makes an angled hole? That doesn't compute in my muddled brain.
countersink
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/2countersink-bit_senker.jpg)
counterbore with pilot, it drills a flat bottomed hole.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/counterbore.jpg)
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I see. I do some of my counter sinking with forstner bits for a flat-bottomed hole, no angle, which would be most appropriate for this appilcation.
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I'm glad we reached some homo eroticness again with synonym like drilling flat bottomed holes.
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countersink
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/2countersink-bit_senker.jpg)
counterbore with pilot, it drills a flat bottomed hole.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/counterbore.jpg)
I goof up on my choice of cutters! I did this for a living for many years & should have known better..........
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I goof up on my choice of cutters! I did this for a living for many years & should have known better..........
My dad was a machinist, I really miss his specialty tools!
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I'm a Tool & Die Maker, but I've been off the bench for about 25 years running Wire EDMs & a Laser.
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I'm glad we reached some homo eroticness again with synonym like drilling flat bottomed holes.
LOL, you got me! Good one!
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Flat bottomed drills for our Fat bottomed girls............... ;D
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Pump that Ripper till it's dripper.