'73 mapleglo checkerboard binding.

[Dave W]

Agreed, that should be fixable.

[godofthunder]

  They could snap, I've had it happen. They may bend back ,they may not, if they snap I am sol. Ain't the only thing that's wrong, the neck pup output is very weak, I mean almost inaudible. The bridge pup is intermittent ( most likely the switch no real big deal but come on) oh yeah the nut fell when I detuned it to get the truss rod cover off, again no big deal but you'd think they'd check things out before they sell them ? I mean I found all this stuff the first 10 minutes of the bass being in my hands.

[Dr Quist]

VERY disappointing, The truss rods are bent, pushed into the truss rod cavity. Looks like someone tried to dig under the nuts to get a wrench on them  I emailed the seller, there is supposed to be a seven day return policy.

In th factory , we used a curved gouge to chisel out material under the rods. This was done to about 99% of all instruments.

The rod curl is extremely common. It is due to the materials  the rods are made of and the way the rods  opperate.

I use a SNAP-ON 1/4" open end wrench where the head is set at nearly a right angle to the shaft.   I back off the nuts .. Then remove the truss rod bar. (thats the aluminum piece)
.
Next I flatten the bar as they usually are chewed up from being tensioned.

[Dr Quist]

I pull both rods OUT of the neck ( Yes they pull out ! )

Then I chase the threads on both rods.. this cleans up the mild steel rods (this is NOT cold rolled steel like Fender or Gibson truss rod stock )

Then I look at how much thread there is to both rods... if there is little or no thread past the upper rods end.. I extend the threads at least 3/4" onto both rods (this is for future needs .

Then I look at how much curvature there is to the neck .

With the strings loose .. I see if the fretboard is arched (most of the time .. this is NEVER the case)
If its flat .. then I just reinstall the rods.
If the neck has a back bow of any amount .. IO clanp the neck at the 1st fret .. leaving the body floating in the air. I have a special Rick rod adjustment  set up for this task. It is something we had in the factory.

[Dr Quist]

I then arch both rods.. wax them with JOHNSON'S paste wax (comes in a Yellow tin at most grocery stores in the USA )
Then slide them back into the neck.   

I slip the bar back onto both rods ( this can be tricky )  then the real mod.. Slip two Metric washers  over the rods after they are poking out of the bar. Then Tighten the rods up and get an arch in the neck .

Next.. Unclamp the neck

Tune .. You may need to raise the bridge temporarily (Yes this is more work.. but remember... its NOT  a Fender P Bass .)
Then loosen the rods to get the correct neck relief .

Now set the bridge height.

[Dr Quist]

I have read and seen several comments about this truss rod adjusting from  so called Authorities on the web.   NONE of them worked in Check out and Assembly at Rickenbacker.
NONE of them dealt with 40 to 60 basses a day  in the 3000 or 4000  series .

NONE of them  understands HOW to really do this ... including the current so called expert  Dingle Dangle .He does not have the experience.

So if you hear....Arnquist  does not know what he is talking about .. let me know , please.

[nofi]

is it too late to return it. too much wrong, imo. mr. dingle dangle indeed

[Dr Quist]

I don't see a problem with this bass in question... it just needs adjusting by some one who knows HOW to do it.

Its not that big of deal.

[godofthunder]

 DrQuist, Thanks for all the info. I do know that the rods pull right out. I am more than capable of doing the work you have described. Thank you again for your tutorial it is valuable info much i did not know. From a buyers stand point this bass is unacceptable, I would never sell a bass with the issues this bass has without divulging it to the seller. I will consider what to do.

[ilan]

then the real mod.. Slip two Metric washers  over the rods after they are poking out of the bar

Is that to keep them from bending down again?

[SeanS]

Is that to keep them from bending down again?

I've done the very same with a few rods now, although I made a twin washer from some 4130 sheet. It stops the nuts chewing into the ally block and helps keep the thread ends straighter to the block, but this design will always bend, just a case of doing as above to get the rods back to normal and then going easy on them.

[dadagoboi]

What happens if you replace the hot rolled rods with stiffer cold rolled?  Doing that and making the (bar) block out of steel would help eliminate a lot of metal deformation.

[godofthunder]

 On closer inspection the gouge marks are of two varieties. Some have finish on them others do not. The ones with finish are clean cuts, the others are rough and ragged, the work does not to me look like it was done by the same tool or person.

[godofthunder]

 It's going back.

[warriorbass05]

It's going back.

Probably a good idea....if you really want a nice one, keep looking-they are out there...