The Last Bass Outpost
Gear Discussion Forums => Rickenbacker Basses => Topic started by: godofthunder on January 27, 2012, 02:34:29 PM
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Man I gotta tell ya my finger is a twitch'n. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rickenbacker-4001-bass-1973-Natural-original-case-/230736877951?pt=Guitar&hash=item35b8fd597f
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It's over 300 miles away from me or I'd check it out for you. $75 seems reasonable to take a look.
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I will bet money my name is inside that bass
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Did you sell it or was it stolen?
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I made it . I worked at rickenbacker from July 20th 1972 until Oct 16th 1976
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How cool! Are you considering buying it ? If so I'll back off on it.
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I don't want it at all.
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Any of these names familiar? This one is actually a '76 so the '78 date could be a repair or something.
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l111/bigtreebluesea/Rickenbacker/DSC05986a.jpg)
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Mike is Mike Molina .. funny guy
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Cool MG, and welcome Dr Quist!
I didn't notice a name last I had my 73 open, but I do have a 78 "Maria" 8)
(http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k125/0chromium0/forums/rickenbacker/DSCF8021.jpg)
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Maria was the gal who applied paste wood filler to EVERY instrument from 1973 until 1983
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Many of these 1970's instruments have L.C. and Radar inside them .
L.C. is Laura Clark .. she was there from around 1962 until she retired in the 1980's . she was the head of the paint clean up dept... she could scrape the binding clean of all color in a under two minutes. she was a machine and a fun lady .
Bob Radar ran the paint area prep squad. He was the 'King' of epoxy filler .
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I always like hearing about the people who made our instruments. Welcome aboard and thanks for the cool info!
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in the bridge cavity there may also be on eof two signature.
Maria (again ) or Cecilia . Both worked in the prep area before the spray booth.
Some other names from cavities ;
Bill - this was Bill Meyers factory Supervisor.. the REAL guy in terms of the production .
Ruby - she was a binding scraper.. had long black hair to her waist .
Brian Cery - sander in the prep area , great guitarist
Dave Florio - did everything in the post woodshop-pre spray booth area
Reggie .. another prep guy ,
Joe Seibert - prep area and piano player .. very Winwood influenced.
Mike Baccharini- bassist and float worker who was moved around in the finishing building depending on where he was needed . I found his stolen bass about 6 years ago. a very cool story .
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Mine (Oct. '73) has Ruby in the cavity.
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yes she was a looker
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I'm amazed this thread has gone this far with such an in-depth discussion on cavities and Madame T'bird, Queen of the duble-enter-endre hasn't made an entry... ;D
Welcome DrQ
(ps... never mention WWII, planes, tanks, motorbikes, tractors, sheds, small furry critters with big bushy tails, Hellcats, BoB, Indycar, Formula 1, the Euro and all things Greek, invading Poland [you started it!], Ze Kollecshun, lawyers-in-general [unless its very-very-ve-haf-vays-of-making-you-laff funny], mirror-shined leather, whips, TV, all general and obscure forms of perversion, Monty Python, especially all forms of Lark and Holy-Hand-Grenades... as you might never leave...)
Did I miss anything...?
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'bout covers it Kenny ;)
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I was given the new ICM TU144 kit for Christmas by Roshina and Jackie...
Dog with two tails...! ;)
(good luck for the forseeable for you and yours Scott - gutted that I missed the Kodak issue considering I had heard it mentioned over here)
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Oh I dropped it in in general conversation Kenny, I suppose when things really go south I'll post something specific. I only mention it in passing mainly to remind myself that I don't really need another bass and unless it is something extraordinary I need to keep my wallet in my pocket.
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I'm amazed this thread has gone this far with such an in-depth discussion on cavities and Madame T'bird, Queen of the duble-enter-endre hasn't made an entry... ;D
Welcome DrQ
(ps... never mention WWII, planes, tanks, motorbikes, tractors, sheds, small furry critters with big bushy tails, Hellcats, BoB, Indycar, Formula 1, the Euro and all things Greek, invading Poland [you started it!], Ze Kollecshun, lawyers-in-general [unless its very-very-ve-haf-vays-of-making-you-laff funny], mirror-shined leather, whips, TV, all general and obscure forms of perversion, Monty Python, especially all forms of Lark and Holy-Hand-Grenades... as you might never leave...)
Did I miss anything...?
Yes, Ken old boy, you did. In particular, axle grease or lubricants in general :P
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I'd like to be in Ruby's cavity ;D http://youtu.be/YaFwXV9cF-k
(Oct. '73) Mine has Ruby in the cavity.
[/quote]
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIfKrkvxR9Q
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I guess I turned this thread into the gutter inadvertantly .
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It doesn't take much for us ;)
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Spear and Jackson tools in general, and block planes... thin ice there too...
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opps I submitted a offer ;D Holy grail of Rics for me. They are considering it. If I get it I am going to have to sell a few things !
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Spear and Jackson tools in general, and block planes... thin ice there too...
Spear and Jackson No. 3 shovels, in specific.
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opps I submitted a offer ;D Holy grail of Rics for me. They are considering it. If I get it I am going to have to sell a few things !
Good luck, I hope you get it!
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Good luck on that, Scott.
You and Baz need to keep records so we can figure out who does the most bass buying and selling.
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Mine for $1,700 :)
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Congrats!
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Good deal!
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I hope so!
Good deal!
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It is a good price if it plays well.
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Nice catch! Looks like it was well loved, and so that's probably a good sign! 8)
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I have been in contact with the seller seems like a nice guy, he says it plays great and i won't be disappointed.
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Should that have a toaster next to the neck? I had a 73, and I'm pretty sure it had a 6 pole toaster in the neck position...but then again maybe it was earlier?
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All toasters are 6-pole. Checkerboards typically have a toaster, the change from checkerboard to plain binding was before the change from toasters to high-gains, but '73 was a transition year and everything is possible.
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I had thought that it should be a toaster but as ilan says '73 is a transition year. I'm not bothered either way.
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WTF? UPS said it was supposed to be delivered on the 2nd. On the 2nd it was in Buffalo NY, today the 3rd it is in Syracuse NY. Come on folks Rochester is between Buffalo and Syracuse. How hard can this be ?
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Scotty don't lose that Riccy... hmm... I feel a song coming on...
Congrats and looking foward to seeing the pics... 8)
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lol Kenny I won't lose the Ricky. I really should not have bought it but it seemed like a good deal, I'm busy flogging stuff to cover it. It certainly looks like a "Scott" bass
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VERY disappointing, The truss rods are bent, pushed into the truss rod cavity. Looks like someone tried to dig under the nuts to get a wrench on them :rolleyes: I emailed the seller, there is supposed to be a seven day return policy. (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v102/godofthunder59/73Ricktrussrods002.jpg)
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VERY disappointing, The truss rods are bent, pushed into the truss rod cavity. Looks like someone tried to dig under the nuts to get a wrench on them :rolleyes: I emailed the seller, there is supposed to be a seven day return policy. (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v102/godofthunder59/73Ricktrussrods002.jpg)
they are easy to bend back just takes a little patience....not a huge deal...
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Agreed, that should be fixable.
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They could snap, I've had it happen. They may bend back ,they may not, if they snap I am sol. Ain't the only thing that's wrong, the neck pup output is very weak, I mean almost inaudible. The bridge pup is intermittent ( most likely the switch no real big deal but come on) oh yeah the nut fell when I detuned it to get the truss rod cover off, again no big deal but you'd think they'd check things out before they sell them ? I mean I found all this stuff the first 10 minutes of the bass being in my hands.
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VERY disappointing, The truss rods are bent, pushed into the truss rod cavity. Looks like someone tried to dig under the nuts to get a wrench on them :rolleyes: I emailed the seller, there is supposed to be a seven day return policy. (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v102/godofthunder59/73Ricktrussrods002.jpg)
In th factory , we used a curved gouge to chisel out material under the rods. This was done to about 99% of all instruments.
The rod curl is extremely common. It is due to the materials the rods are made of and the way the rods opperate.
I use a SNAP-ON 1/4" open end wrench where the head is set at nearly a right angle to the shaft. I back off the nuts .. Then remove the truss rod bar. (thats the aluminum piece)
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Next I flatten the bar as they usually are chewed up from being tensioned.
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I pull both rods OUT of the neck ( Yes they pull out ! )
Then I chase the threads on both rods.. this cleans up the mild steel rods (this is NOT cold rolled steel like Fender or Gibson truss rod stock )
Then I look at how much thread there is to both rods... if there is little or no thread past the upper rods end.. I extend the threads at least 3/4" onto both rods (this is for future needs .
Then I look at how much curvature there is to the neck .
With the strings loose .. I see if the fretboard is arched (most of the time .. this is NEVER the case)
If its flat .. then I just reinstall the rods.
If the neck has a back bow of any amount .. IO clanp the neck at the 1st fret .. leaving the body floating in the air. I have a special Rick rod adjustment set up for this task. It is something we had in the factory.
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I then arch both rods.. wax them with JOHNSON'S paste wax (comes in a Yellow tin at most grocery stores in the USA )
Then slide them back into the neck.
I slip the bar back onto both rods ( this can be tricky ) then the real mod.. Slip two Metric washers over the rods after they are poking out of the bar. Then Tighten the rods up and get an arch in the neck .
Next.. Unclamp the neck
Tune .. You may need to raise the bridge temporarily (Yes this is more work.. but remember... its NOT a Fender P Bass .)
Then loosen the rods to get the correct neck relief .
Now set the bridge height.
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I have read and seen several comments about this truss rod adjusting from so called Authorities on the web. NONE of them worked in Check out and Assembly at Rickenbacker.
NONE of them dealt with 40 to 60 basses a day in the 3000 or 4000 series .
NONE of them understands HOW to really do this ... including the current so called expert Dingle Dangle .He does not have the experience.
So if you hear....Arnquist does not know what he is talking about .. let me know , please.
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is it too late to return it. too much wrong, imo. mr. dingle dangle indeed :)
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I don't see a problem with this bass in question... it just needs adjusting by some one who knows HOW to do it.
Its not that big of deal.
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DrQuist, Thanks for all the info. I do know that the rods pull right out. I am more than capable of doing the work you have described. Thank you again for your tutorial it is valuable info much i did not know. From a buyers stand point this bass is unacceptable, I would never sell a bass with the issues this bass has without divulging it to the seller. I will consider what to do.
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then the real mod.. Slip two Metric washers over the rods after they are poking out of the bar
Is that to keep them from bending down again?
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Is that to keep them from bending down again?
I've done the very same with a few rods now, although I made a twin washer from some 4130 sheet. It stops the nuts chewing into the ally block and helps keep the thread ends straighter to the block, but this design will always bend, just a case of doing as above to get the rods back to normal and then going easy on them.
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What happens if you replace the hot rolled rods with stiffer cold rolled? Doing that and making the (bar) block out of steel would help eliminate a lot of metal deformation.
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On closer inspection the gouge marks are of two varieties. Some have finish on them others do not. The ones with finish are clean cuts, the others are rough and ragged, the work does not to me look like it was done by the same tool or person.
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It's going back.
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It's going back.
Probably a good idea....if you really want a nice one, keep looking-they are out there...
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I really appreciate all the advice and I did learn a fair amount. What it boils down to for me is that I paid a pretty good chunk of money for a bass with a serious problem, one that should have be disclosed. A over site like this is unacceptable from a ebay seller with a brick and mortar music store. They should know better.
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Sorry it didn't work out for you. You get to have the final decision.
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...unacceptable from a ebay seller with a brick and mortar music store. They should know better.
Obviously you've never been to South Florida. ;D
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Nope never been!
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Well if you ask me ... you have not seen enough Rick basses.
These gouge things are and were done all the time.
Both BEFORE they went into the spray booth...and then in the assembly area.
this is no big deal .
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VERY disappointing, The truss rods are bent, pushed into the truss rod cavity. Looks like someone tried to dig under the nuts to get a wrench on them :rolleyes: I emailed the seller, there is supposed to be a seven day return policy. (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v102/godofthunder59/73Ricktrussrods002.jpg)
With the mild steel used... more than HALF the pre 1985 basses have this so called PROBLEM... its not a problem. Its not a HUGE issue.
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I know that if I'm shelling out $1700 for a bass it had damn well better be all there and functioning
properly. I think that is Scott's point and I don't blame him, whether the "issues" are easily rectified
or not, that's simply too much $ to pay for an instrument that is gonna have to be taken apart and
monkeyed with to make it playable. Just sayin'.
T
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Bingo
I know that if I'm shelling out $1700 for a bass it had damn well better be all there and functioning
properly. I think that is Scott's point and I don't blame him, whether the "issues" are easily rectified
or not, that's simply too much $ to pay for an instrument that is gonna have to be taken apart and
monkeyed with to make it playable. Just sayin'.
T
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My 73 had the same problem...'course it was $300. still played fine.
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For me the action is way to high on this bass. As it came the truss rods can not be adjusted. So back it goes. No way in h*ll I am paying $,1700 for anything with the issues this bass has with out being disclosed.
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A Ric is one of the only major brands of older basses that I've never owned, although I have played loaners. I've been thinking of buying a 1968-73 era one with checker binding, etc. and have found this forum string EXTREMELY informative and interesting. Thanks.
I recently did a set-up on a friend's Cheyenne that he's had for years. He's one of those guys who plays various instruments but hasn't a clue on how to set up a guitar. His strings were almost a full inch off the fingerboard, so this bass had just become something that sat on a stand in the corner and unplayable. Gesh! Fortunately, I got it playing great after about 45 minutes of tweaking. He was stoked and looked amazed, watching me work on it. I was glad I was able to get it right for him and that there wasn't anything major wrong with the thing.
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Not a huge issue IMHO, but of course it should have been disclosed in the auction.
My '73 was a ski slope when I got it (for $1,250). The rod ends were bent and warped, of course. I cut half an inch off the rods and was able to adjust the neck to zero relief and low action with TI rounds. Since then the neck has been very stable for years. I should have had a new spacer block made, but it's stable so I'm not messing with it right now.
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There is an assumption that because the Beatles , Byrds, Yes , Rush Petty, Etc used this brand that they must be as easy to adjust from a mechanic point of view.
That just is NOT the case.
All pre 1985 basses need help.I have rarely seen one STOCK that did not need the bridge moved, the E saddle modified so you COULD get the string intonated ...and the curling rods is easy to solve...THEY ALL DO THAT .
I can explain it . Most repair shops deal with Gibson's truss rod . It does not matter what brand that rod is in ..it is their design.
Rick has since 1986 used a variation on the Gibson design ... it too can use a little help IMHO. (I am not crazy about how the rods are anchored- a fairly easy fix )
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Within 15 minuets of the bass arriving four problems presented themselves, way to many for the kind of money I spent. I would take longer than the seven day return policy to sort through all the issues and who knows what else might pop up. So back it goes. It is my money after all. Geeze you'd think I left a baby on a door step.
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Within 15 minuets of the bass arriving four problems presented themselves, way to many for the kind of money I spent. I would take longer than the seven day return policy to sort through all the issues and who knows what else might pop up. So back it goes. It is my money after all. Geeze you'd think I left a baby on a door step.
I think you need an RD Artist!!! a black one!!!
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;D
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http://youtu.be/StDpf4q1sUU
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http://youtu.be/StDpf4q1sUU
;D
The verdict is in.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5jnu6oKV_o
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Most repair shops deal with Gibson's truss rod . It does not matter what brand that rod is in ..it is their design.
I did not know that. It's a brilliant design.
(I am not crazy about how the rods are anchored- a fairly easy fix )
Would you kindly post that fix?
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They could snap, I've had it happen. They may bend back ,they may not, if they snap I am sol. Ain't the only thing that's wrong, the neck pup output is very weak, I mean almost inaudible. The bridge pup is intermittent ( most likely the switch no real big deal but come on) oh yeah the nut fell when I detuned it to get the truss rod cover off, again no big deal but you'd think they'd check things out before they sell them ? I mean I found all this stuff the first 10 minutes of the bass being in my hands.
Weak pickups ? time for a meter... an audible is really just a clue here.
If the magnet does not touch the polepieces of the neck pickup .. it will be weak sounding. It should read 6.5 to 8k or even more !
Intermittant pickups are also dirty contacts on the selector switch and the switch on the mono jack . A piece of sand paper (400 to 1500 grit) wiped across the contact once will fix it .
To fix the truss rods ... I will run a thread on that .
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Doc I have a meter, like I said before no time, and at this point no interest. it's gone and I'm glad.
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Weak pickups ? time for a meter... an audible is really just a clue here.
If the magnet does not touch the polepieces of the neck pickup .. it will be weak sounding. It should read 6.5 to 8k or even more !
Intermittant pickups are also dirty contacts on the selector switch and the switch on the mono jack . A piece of sand paper (400 to 1500 grit) wiped across the contact once will fix it .
To fix the truss rods ... I will run a thread on that .
Mark, I'm sure a truss rod tutorial will be helpful. That said, I understand why Scott sent it back. May have been 100% fixable, but he shouldn't have to pay anywhere near that for one with a bunch of issues that need to be addressed. I know I wouldn't.
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Well I have no idea what a bass of that era is going for.
I just see one to 5 Ricks hitting my bench per week.
its been that way for 30+ years.
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oy :rolleyes:
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Mark, I'm sure a truss rod tutorial will be helpful. That said, I understand why Scott sent it back. May have been 100% fixable, but he shouldn't have to pay anywhere near that for one with a bunch of issues that need to be addressed. I know I wouldn't.
I thought the pictures in the auction said it all, the next step is only a decision.