i need some help gang - Colby Bass

[sniper]

i noticed the pencil line drawn between the "waist" and the marking outlining the neck rout. is that pencil line the line of where the pole pieces of the pickup are going to be?

[drbassman]

i noticed the pencil line drawn between the "waist" and the marking outlining the neck rout. is that pencil line the line of where the pole pieces of the pickup are going to be?

No, that's a line off the center I used to make sure the bottom of the pocket rout is square.  I'm always squaring things up to be sure!

I hope to get the jig finished and the pocket routed by Tuesday.  Work is such an annoying distraction!

[shadowcastaz]

Doc FYI .If you want to be true & have no warping ,cut & laminate. In other words like building a 3 or 5 pc neck . You cut & control which way the grain lines  line up giving you a stable base to work with.Could use mdf but that stuff gives me a headache

[dadagoboi]

Doc FYI .If you want to be true & have no warping ,cut & laminate. In other words like building a 3 or 5 pc neck . You cut & control which way the grain lines  line up giving you a stable base to work with.Could use mdf but that stuff gives me a headache

I agree on the lamination but would use 11 ply Scandinavian birch ply or the kind of MDF that is used for signage, it's denser and more stable.  I think it's called MDO but it's been a long time since I've bought it.

E-1 MDF won't give you a headache, no formaldehyde in it.  Uncommon in the US but it's the only kind you can buy in Europe.

[shadowcastaz]

Baltic birch is awesome,good point.Still dont like MDF.

[drbassman]

Yeah, I think I'm gonna go with some laminated stuff.  Might have to make it myself.  We'll see what I can come up with!

[sniper]

all i could think of is marine grade ply = prolly not a lot of that around anymore, even in boat shops huh?

[drbassman]

Doc FYI .If you want to be true & have no warping ,cut & laminate. In other words like building a 3 or 5 pc neck . You cut & control which way the grain lines  line up giving you a stable base to work with.Could use mdf but that stuff gives me a headache

Could I laminate some MDF to my poplar boards to stabilize them?  That would be an easy fix!

[drbassman]

I agree on the lamination but would use 11 ply Scandinavian birch ply or the kind of MDF that is used for signage, it's denser and more stable.  I think it's called MDO but it's been a long time since I've bought it.

E-1 MDF won't give you a headache, no formaldehyde in it.  Uncommon in the US but it's the only kind you can buy in Europe.

If I could find this ply, would that be all I needed?

[drbassman]

Would garden variety MDF from Home Depot work?

Here's a list of what the local year has.  Good variety of plys.  Should I go with 3/4" (or so)?

[dadagoboi]

I'd use 1 1/2 inches of baltic birch (2 -3/4" strips glued together).  Second choice would be mdf, done the same way.

[drbassman]

Opps, here's the list I forgot.

http://www.pittsfordlumber.com/Pittsford_Lumber/price_list.html

[drbassman]

I'd use 1 1/2 inches of baltic birch (2 -3/4" strips glued together).  Second choice would be mdf, done the same way.

I was hoping to keep it to no more than 1" thick as the thicker the rail, the longer I need the router bits to be.  If it takes more I'll just have to do it!

[dadagoboi]

I was hoping to keep it to no more than 1" thick as the thicker the rail, the longer I need the router bits to be.  If it takes more I'll just have to do it!

I'd use 1/2" baltic birch  laminated to 1". 

[drbassman]

I'd use 1/2" baltic birch  laminated to 1". 

That sounds good. If it isn't rigid enough, I can always add another 1/2". Thanks Carlo.