i need some help gang - Colby Bass

drbassman · November 05, 2010, 06:06:09 AM

Thanks Sniper. Won't make any progress this weekend with the son home for a visit! We'll get back at it next week.

sniper · November 09, 2010, 03:40:37 PM

you don't have to dowel it doctor. cutting a crossbrace 1" wide x 1/2" deep x length of the centerpiece width and laying in a grove across both halves and the skunk stripe into each sound chamber would be okay and much easier to do.

just a thought. it would give it a little more bracing and not have to be so exacting to setup, then it would be covered by the top cap too.

drbassman · November 09, 2010, 06:01:10 PM

Quote from: sniper dog on November 09, 2010, 03:40:37 PM
you don't have to dowel it doctor. cutting a crossbrace 1" wide x 1/2" deep x length of the centerpiece width and laying in a grove across both halves and the skunk stripe into each sound chamber would be okay and much easier to do.

just a thought. it would give it a little more bracing and not have to be so exacting to setup, then it would be covered by the top cap too.

I cut the body in half today and will install the stripe next. I can put a couple cross braces in across the top if you like. That would work just fine. I'll be planing off the fret board soon!

sniper · November 09, 2010, 06:03:38 PM

sounds super.

i was thinking of a butterfly key butt brace but i didn't know the name of them. to be shaped like a butterfly would not be required but i was thinking of our last conversation of dowels and trying to figure out a way to do it a lot easier.

drbassman · November 10, 2010, 03:47:52 AM

Quote from: sniper dog on November 09, 2010, 06:03:38 PM
sounds super.

i was thinking of a butterfly key butt brace but i didn't know the name of them. to be shaped like a butterfly would not be required but i was thinking of our last conversation of dowels and trying to figure out a way to do it a lot easier.

I'll look into the key idea. Sounds like it would work.

I'm also going to use a piece of mahogany I have in the shop for the stripe. The piece you sent is going to be really thin by the time I plane and sand the saw marks out of it and I don't think I can keep it perfectly flat with the tools I have. If I use a piece of 1/8" mahogany I have on hand, it's already planed properly and will adhere better when glued.

drbassman · November 10, 2010, 06:53:51 AM

Here's the split and planed body and the mahogany strip. I also learned a long time ago that you can't clamp curved edges very well, so I'm making some cauls to fit the edges of the body. You all know how I love to clamp things!!!!!

See below..........

Rough cauls before final sanding............

sniper · November 10, 2010, 01:06:51 PM

looking good Doc.

i had an epiphany this morning on my way to the clinic. it went something like this: "you can't have the builder put a tone switch in that requires a 1 5/8" thick area when the guitar body is only 1 1/2" thick...dum_ss!" ............... soooooooooooo.................. leave the HAS Sound switch out ................ i'll mount it on Mr. Ed's saddle horn after you send it back with the bass or i'll sell it to some cowboy and tell him as long as he uses this on his saddle, he is good for at least 8 seconds. that pup is a full range pup and with slamming it closer to the neck and body chambering it should have enough Mud to send a Fender back to it's momma asking to be changed into a banjo.

been a thimpkin again................maybe i'll tint it Apple Green to show off that spalting (which i would think would stay deep brown or black) and have a clear nailed/sprayed/dipped on top of that with the back just masked off and grain filled/stained dark then a clear on top of that, leaving the neck clear as it is now with a little buffing with some 4 ought steel wool. should look righteous with all that Black Ebony/Black Walnut/black or dark brown spalting lines and black trim goodness.

gimme some opinions here players!!!

drbassman · November 10, 2010, 05:51:13 PM

I'm thinking any color you like would be good. Something trans to show off the splatting is a good idea. The back and sides idea sounds good also.

I love this look.............

sniper · November 10, 2010, 09:27:39 PM

did you notice how the binding matches the spalting on that? it has to be a non-painted/taped off binding with the same on the bottom i would guess seeing a few dark spots on the bottom edge.

drbassman · November 11, 2010, 04:17:00 AM

Yeah, we call it faux binding. You tape off the edges while painting and it makes a nice wood colored binding. I've never done it but I like the look.

dadagoboi · November 11, 2010, 05:33:43 AM

That faux binding is a cool trick. Looking forward to seeing how this all turns out!

drbassman · November 11, 2010, 09:17:10 AM

Clamp city!!!

Daniel_J · November 11, 2010, 10:42:45 AM

Looking great, Doc!

It seems like you did a great job keeping both halves aligned. You definitely need the right clamping cauls for that kind of job.
Just like you mentioned, I also learned a long time ago that you can't clamp curved edges very well...

exiledarchangel · November 11, 2010, 10:56:53 AM

Nothing can resist your clamping force, Doc!

drbassman · November 11, 2010, 11:10:11 AM

Quote from: Daniel_J on November 11, 2010, 10:42:45 AM
Looking great, Doc!

It seems like you did a great job keeping both halves aligned. You definitely need the right clamping cauls for that kind of job.
Just like you mentioned, I also learned a long time ago that you can't clamp curved edges very well...

That's the beauty of building from scratch, you can avoid curves if you do this before cutting the body out.