The Last Bass Outpost
Gear Discussion Forums => Bill's Shop: Projects, Mods & Repairs => Topic started by: drbassman on January 21, 2014, 06:10:26 AM
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It's been months since I tore my shop up to do a redesign of it. Now, it's almost all back together and I'm making some forms to build the sides on my basses. I'm going with the one design for now and I'm going to try a acoustic version with bent wood sides and a solid body model.
Here's the design....
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Misc%20Stuff/DocBass_A.png) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/Misc%20Stuff/DocBass_A.png.html)
And the forms I made this week.......
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Acoustic%20bass%20building/DSCN0028_zpsc79333df.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/Acoustic%20bass%20building/DSCN0028_zpsc79333df.jpg.html)
I'm trying a new, bendable wood for guitar sides, I'll post more on that when it arrives.
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Nice, Bill! Glad to see you're back in the saddle. Semi hollow is a great way to go.
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Nice, Bill! Glad to see you're back in the saddle. Semi hollow is a great way to go.
Yeah, it's been a long time coming. What with retirement in June and then going back to work on a part-time basis, I've been much busier than I expected!
I had experimented with hollowing out a solid piece of wood for the semi-hollow body and it's just a big pain, and mess, even with a good router table. Doing the bent sides allows for a truer hollow effect with a thinner top and bottom. I'll probably do a glue on neck as well, not a big fan of screws.
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Nice to see you back with a tool in your hands... ;D
Hate to ask about that other build...? :o
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Nice to see you back with a tool in your hands... ;D
Hate to ask about that other build...? :o
Egads, which other build? I sold off a few without finishing them due to lack of interest ad time.
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I raised a Zombie thread...!
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I do like the shape. But Kenny's not going to let you rest until you finish the Billy Bo. ;)
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I do like the shape. But Kenny's not going to let you rest until you finish the Billy Bo. ;)
Ah, I see! Fortunately, I didn't sell that one and intend to finish it this spring. ;)
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No rest for the wicked... er... ;D
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No rest for the wicked... er... ;D
For sure. I'm gonna install a dust collection system in my shop today. The wood for the sides of my basses will be ready in a week or two. Meanwhile, I'm gonna glue up several tops and backs.
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:popcorn:
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That's a nice body shape. Wonder what the rest of the design looks like!
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That's a nice body shape. Wonder what the rest of the design looks like!
Basically, like this:
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN1001_zpsf566d45b.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN1001_zpsf566d45b.jpg.html)
This is not necessarily the hardware I'll use:
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0990_zpsa2877570.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0990_zpsa2877570.jpg.html)
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still like it. IMHO needs a 2+2 style headstock..
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still like it. IMHO needs a 2+2 style headstock..
The first few prototypes will be fender style necks, then we'll work on a 2+2 version.
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My shop is back together for the most part. One side is the "dusty" side with saws, planer and router table. The other side is the clean side for everything else. It's going to work great. Did I mention that you can never have enough clamps?
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0031_zps58dc1339.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0031_zps58dc1339.jpg.html)
I've been making sound boards, top and bottom, for my builds.
So far, so good. Here's the clean side.......
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0030_zpscb3450db.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0030_zpscb3450db.jpg.html)
And the dusty side, with my Grizzly dust collector. The best investment I've made in years. I have reduced the dust by 95% since I installed it. It is a beast! I have it on a portable hose for now, will do something more permanent later on.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0032_zps03a31191.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0032_zps03a31191.jpg.html)
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Interesting way to weight down those cauls!
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My son left them when he moved out. I sure don't use them as intended!!! :P. He has a gym at work, so he's all set now. They work well. I use them to keep my lumber flat too.
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What brand of joiner is that? Looks nice and wide for a benchtop model.
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What brand of joiner is that? Looks nice and wide for a benchtop model.
It's a Delta. 6" blades I think. Perfect for the edges of small projects like guitars. It has worked well for my needs.
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It's a Delta. 6" blades I think. Perfect for the edges of small projects like guitars. It has worked well for my needs.
Yep, Delta JT 160. One of the first tools I bought when I started building. So far, so good.
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Speaking of tools, I made two today: blade holders for scraping binding and a downdraft sanding table (cost about $20).
I installed a screw insert so I can pick up a thumb screw for locking in the blade. I made two of them a large and small version.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0036_zps1fc164a0.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0036_zps1fc164a0.jpg.html)
Here's the sanding table. Really easy project!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0037_zps5b85e42f.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0037_zps5b85e42f.jpg.html)
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Yep, Delta JT 160. One of the first tools I bought when I started building. So far, so good.
Thanks. Seems to be discontinued now. I sold my floor model 6" Jet before I moved in 2010, hope to be looking for another later this year if things go as planned.
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Thanks. Seems to be discontinued now. I sold my floor model 6" Jet before I moved in 2010, hope to be looking for another later this year if things go as planned.
I have a 70s cast iron Craftsman table model 6" jointer. Consider one of them or another quality used brand. My 8 inch belsaw planer is a similar tool. Parts still available out of CA, great customer service. The only thing made of plastic on both tools is the lockswitch. Bought them for a total of $150. Lots of geezers leaving good tools behind.
Nice table and scrapers, Bill!
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Nice table and scrapers, Bill!
Thanks Carlo. I love to make my own stuff when I can.
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I'll be looking on Craigslist. Around here there's usually no shortage of old iron at good prices. Just don't want anything too heavy or bulky to get down into the basement.
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Yeah, my Delta is a light weight, I can toss it around easily, but it seems well made and has been a workhorse for quite awhile.
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I'll be looking on Craigslist. Around here there's usually no shortage of old iron at good prices. Just don't want anything too heavy or bulky to get down into the basement.
I hear ya! I have to move mine to use them and it's not fun. They each have two casters at one end so it still involves some lifting. I should probably add 2 more casters.
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I hear ya! I have to move mine to use them and it's not fun. They each have two casters at one end so it still involves some lifting. I should probably add 2 more casters.
I got tired of moving things too, that's why I changed my shop so everything is stationary now. It's so much easier now.
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I got tired of moving things too, that's why I changed my shop so everything is stationary now. It's so much easier now.
My shop is only 18x20, has two motorcycles in it and is also used as my paint booth. With 6 active builds in various stages of construction space gets a little tight at times. Especially since I hold to the maxim, "neatness is the virtue of a mediocre mind" to justify being a slob. ;D
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I'm pretty much shut down...My 280ZX is up on jackstands and it's blocking my Shopsmith to the side of the garage - no room to move it. I'll be out of luck for any substantial work until I get the 280ZX running again. It's too dang cold to work in that garage at present.
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My shop is only 18x20, has two motorcycles in it and is also used as my paint booth. With 6 active builds in various stages of construction space gets a little tight at times. Especially since I hold to the maxim, "neatness is the virtue of a mediocre mind" to justify being a slob. ;D
My shop is probably about the same size if you add both sides together. No motorcycles though! I also do my table sawing and spraying in the barn. Too cold now for finishing. Can't wait for spring!
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The shed's still at the bottom of the garden... :sad:
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The shed's still at the bottom of the garden... :sad:
You need an addition on your house! I couldn't think of a better reason. ;D
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That'll be for the next one but not here... the shed works for the present... it's just me that's guilty as charged... :mrgreen:
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(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0037_zps5b85e42f.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0037_zps5b85e42f.jpg.html)
Used my sanding table today with the dust beast. Worked great. Dust is such a hassle when your shop is in the basement.
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Making progress...........
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0055_zpscfbf7e0f.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0055_zpscfbf7e0f.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0056_zps5ba81547.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0056_zps5ba81547.jpg.html)
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Looking good!
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Glad to see you building again Doc!
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Thanks guys! Here's the body, finished sanding, edges rounded, with some naphtha to highlight it….
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0058_zps034d1231.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0058_zps034d1231.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0059_zpsb5f6260f.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0059_zpsb5f6260f.jpg.html)
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Wow, that's beautiful work! I'm looking forward to seeing how you progress as a builder. Your skills are already awesome.
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Thanks George. I learn something every time I go into my shop. Some of it the hard way!!! :P
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Nice work Doc! So, is this one solid or maybe chambered? Did I miss the bent wood somehow?
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Nice work Doc! So, is this one solid or maybe chambered? Did I miss the bent wood somehow?
This one has a chamber in the top. The other one is solid. The bent wood supplier is having equipment issues, so I'm still waiting to hear from him.
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This one has a chamber in the top. The other one is solid. The bent wood supplier is having equipment issues, so I'm still waiting to hear from him.
Time to build a steam box! 8)
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Time to build a steam box! 8)
Ugh, I am not interested in bending my own wood! Besides, I just got an email from the wood supplier and the bendable wood is ready to ship today! Really looking forward to getting it and experimenting.
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Ugh, I am not interested in bending my own wood! Besides, I just got an email from the wood supplier and the bendable wood is ready to ship today! Really looking forward to getting it and experimenting.
looking forward to how it works out!
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Ugh, I am not interested in bending my own wood! Besides, I just got an email from the wood supplier and the bendable wood is ready to ship today! Really looking forward to getting it and experimenting.
I'm curious as to just how bendable this wood is you are talking about. :popcorn: In particular I really do want to know if you can bend it to the the radius of your two horns. I think even air dried, steam bent wood would be tough to get around that radius.
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Internal judicious cutting...?
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I'm curious as to just how bendable this wood is you are talking about. :popcorn: In particular I really do want to know if you can bend it to the the radius of your two horns. I think even air dried, steam bent wood would be tough to get around that radius.
I asked that question of the manufacturer and we determined that the wood should make it around the top horn and the lower horn will require some inside trimming to fit. Just as Kenny said! The maker said I'd need to sand off about 1/6" or so to make it work. The wood is 1/4" thick, so it's got plenty of beef to it for manipulating. He's sending a couple scraps for testing purposes.
I was also told that the 1/4" thickness makes it unnecessary for kerfs in most cases, based on other guitar builders' experiences. I'm using a center block in my design, so there's going to be plenty of rigidity in my builds. The body will be 2" sides plus the additional thickness of the top and bottom sound boards.
I'll post pics when I get the wood and start working with it.
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I was thinking kerfing rather than thinning it, Bill... the internal "vertical" cuts could also have a bit of glue for strength in each gap - not that uncommon a practice with hollow-bodies...
It's always possible a bit of both will be necessary...?
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I was thinking kerfing rather than thinning it, Bill... the internal "vertical" cuts could also have a bit of glue for strength in each gap - not that uncommon a practice with hollow-bodies...
It's always possible a bit of both will be necessary...?
Good point Kenny! I didn't think of kerfing slots since the maker suggested thinning. I'll have to experiment for sure. Since the wood is very flexible, cutting or sanding it should be interesting!
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Do you have a link to this guy's product? I curious as to what he does to it make it bendable?
As to thinning and kerfing on your horns - have you considered some small shaped blocks to glue into inside of the horns to help lock the shape in and provide some glue surface?
As for the steam box - hell it's a tool! Who doesn't need a another tool in their shop! :P
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Do you have a link to this guy's product? I curious as to what he does to it make it bendable?
As to thinning and kerfing on your horns - have you considered some small shaped blocks to glue into inside of the horns to help lock the shape in and provide some glue surface?
As for the steam box - hell it's a tool! Who doesn't need a another tool in their shop! :P
Oh yeah, guess I could have done that before! Here it is: http://www.puretimber.com/ If you contact him, tell him I referred you. You're going freak out when you see what he can do. It's a compression system he uses and the results are really spectacular.
Here's the instrument wood: http://www.puretimber.com/musical-instruments-1/
We'll see how the bending goes and I'll reinforce if necessary. Again, 1/4" thick is plenty to work with, even if some thinning takes place.
As for steam boxes, I don't mind another tool (for sure!), I just don't have the patience to do this myself. In fact, I decided that if the bendable wood doesn't work, I'm doing the hollowed out chambers on my router table, like the Midtown. Messy, but effective.
My goal is to offer two models: solid or hollow body.
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Thanks guys! Here's the body, finished sanding, edges rounded, with some naphtha to highlight it….
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0058_zps034d1231.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0058_zps034d1231.jpg.html)
That sure is pretty wood! It's going to turn out beautifully!
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Thanks Denis! Wait till you see the cherry finish I put on top of it!
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Oh yeah, guess I could have done that before! Here it is: http://www.puretimber.com/ If you contact him, tell him I referred you. You're going freak out when you see what he can do. It's a compression system he uses and the results are really spectacular.
Here's the instrument wood: http://www.puretimber.com/musical-instruments-1/
We'll see how the bending goes and I'll reinforce if necessary. Again, 1/4" thick is plenty to work with, even if some thinning takes place.
As for steam boxes, I don't mind another tool (for sure!), I just don't have the patience to do this myself. In fact, I decided that if the bendable wood doesn't work, I'm doing the hollowed out chambers on my router table, like the Midtown. Messy, but effective.
My goal is to offer two models: solid or hollow body.
Thanks Doc!
That is some cool stuff! He's proud of it but I imagine he has a small fortune in R&D plus equipment. The fact that he starts with veneer grade wood really has run his pricing up as well. For what he's supplying I think his prices are justified.
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I wanna hear one of their snares! Imagine doing entire drum kits out of bent wood; talk about hearing the differences in tonewood!
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That chambered body is coming along nicely 8)
I'm also looking forward to seeing that bendable hardwood in action - interesting stuff!
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... Who doesn't need a another tool in their shop! :P
Depends on the definition and use of the word Tool, Buzz... :mrgreen:
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Depends on the definition and use of the word Tool, Buzz... :mrgreen:
Hey, I take exception to that aspersion! :o
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www.youtube.com/watch?v=UxXW6tfl2Y0
It was one of Lightyears...!
Sodding was not...! It was Kenny's...!
Err.... you potentially misunderstood my banter, my Lord... Whilst surrounded by an illustrious display of luthierian implements, the last thing you would want within your gallery of crafting wonders, would be a tool ... ;)
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Not to worry Kenny, I knew you were using the personification of the word "tool." My attempt at reciprocal and equally jovial humor kinda fell flat! I guess I'll never get that comedy show I've always dreamed of!
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I knew that ol' bud... and in the same vein... there's nothing funny about your workmanship... :mrgreen:
:popcorn:
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I knew that ol' bud... and in the same vein... there's nothing funny about your workmanship... :mrgreen:
:popcorn:
Thanks for posting the pythons bit, I sure do miss them!
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Decided to try a different pin router attachment. This one is a bit easier to set up than my old one. It only costs $49, very reasonable.
The little remote control is to turn my dust vac on and off. Really handy!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Misc%20Stuff/DSCN0060_zps9899f4fe.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/Misc%20Stuff/DSCN0060_zps9899f4fe.jpg.html)
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Decided to try a different pin pouter attachment. This one is a bit easier to set up than my old one. It only costs $49, very reasonable.
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Is that the one sold by Eagle America and MLCS? The pin and arm are rigid enough not to flex while thick hardwood is being routed beneath?
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Yep, that's the one. I don't notice a flexing problem with the tests I did today. My old one would flex if I pushed against the pin too hard. I think this one is more rigid than my old one. The key really is to glide against the pin, not just jam it against it tightly. It's a matter of touch and practice.
The key issues is set up. Getting the pin EXACTLY over the bit takes patience and several attempts. It took me about 15-20 minutes and a couple redos to get it set the way I wanted. Now, it works perfectly.
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Thanks, Bill. So many projects planned for this year, don't know if I'll get the shop up and working, but that looks like a worthy addition.
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Thanks, Bill. So many projects planned for this year, don't know if I'll get the shop up and working, but that looks like a worthy addition.
I hear ya, it took me a year to get it organized with everything else I had going on. I used the pin attachment last night and it worked just fine. I prefer it over my old one. For once, a nice little tool that didn't cost an arm and leg!
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Debris clearing kit... fit a narrowing nozzle that flares downward towards the cutter and it should increase the suction and clear more dust...
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Debris clearing kit... fit a narrowing nozzle that flares downward towards the cutter and it should increase the suction and clear more dust...
Ah yes, I should use the Bernoulli effect to my advantage. I have to get out to the barn, I think I have some attachments there that will fit. It's been too darn cold to venture out there! Temps in the single digits for days. Where's that damn global warming when you need it? :P
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OK. I got the bendable wood and it is weird for sure. I got a couple sample pieces thrown in to practice with and here's the verdict. Yes, you can ben this stuff by hand. A tight radius is more challenging and needs some work. I found that prebending with the end in a vice worked well.
The horns on my bass requiring some kerfing and the wood responded well to that. I also tried just taking some material off with my sanding drum as Chris suggested, but the bending was more uneven and less predictable. I set up my bandsaw with a piece of wood clamped next to the blade to conrol depth of cut and it's working pretty good now. The trick will be making all of the bends, clamping it into place and then drying it. If time permits, I'll probably try an entire length to see how it goes. It's not sot flexible you can bend it like a noodle, but with some muscle, it will do what you want.
If it is too much work and results aren't what I expect, I won't stick with it. Right now, I hope it works out, I like the idea of a more traditional hollow body design.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0097_zpsd6ed664d.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0097_zpsd6ed664d.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0096_zpsd6b36165.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0096_zpsd6b36165.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0095_zps1f67d832.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0095_zps1f67d832.jpg.html)
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A couple of observations: I think you may have to drill your forms to utilize bar clamps for the whole thing and since the wood is still wet you have you considered what long term exposure to your masonite forms might do? Maybe seal them really well with polyurethane?
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A couple of observations: I think you may have to drill your forms to utilize bar clamps for the whole thing and since the wood is still wet you have you considered what long term exposure to your masonite forms might do? Maybe seal them really well with polyurethane?
Actually, the wood isn't wet, it's been plasticized by the compression process and is totally dry to the touch. While it is bendable, it is not damp or soft. Bending it takes some muscle/force, but it does work. My problem will be the horns. If I can't get the radius I need, I may not be able to use this product.
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IMO kerf cuts have to be deeper, wider, and more consistent where needed. Making them with a thin kerf plywood blade on a table saw using a stop jig and miter gauge is the way to do that quickly and accurately. Judging by your photos you should be able to get the radii you need with no problem.
Like this only cheaper:
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU79R010-Ultimate-Melamine-Perma-Shield/dp/B000GJTIIK
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... Where's that damn global warming when you need it? :P
18c/64f here today, not that I believe all that GW nonsense... Since the autumn/fall, I've had to scrape the windows just the once... plenty of rain, mind you... :o
+1 on the deeper cuts...
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IMO kerf cuts have to be deeper, wider, and more consistent where needed. Making them with a thin kerf plywood blade on a table saw using a stop jig and miter gauge is the way to do that quickly and accurately. Judging by your photos you should be able to get the radii you need with no problem.
Like this only cheaper:
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU79R010-Ultimate-Melamine-Perma-Shield/dp/B000GJTIIK
I'm gonna stick with my band saw with a stop installed. The table saw is in the barn and I'm not working out there in the winter. The kerfs I did yesterday worked, so far so good!
You have to clamp the wood till you use it or it wants to bow. I might take a crack at it tomorrow. I'm letting it sit clamped overnight to get a bow out of it from shipping.
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Actually, the wood isn't wet, it's been plasticized by the compression process and is totally dry to the touch. While it is bendable, it is not damp or soft. Bending it takes some muscle/force, but it does work. My problem will be the horns. If I can't get the radius I need, I may not be able to use this product.
I thought from reading on the company's web site there was still a certain amount of humidity left in from the plasticizing process?
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I thought from reading on the company's web site there was still a certain amount of humidity left in from the plasticizing process?
There is but even when clamped, no moisture surfaces. I've cut and clamped the heck out of the test pieces and they are essentially dry, no dampness.
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Ok, I've been reading up on kerfing. I am going to try a thin kerf blade on my table saw.
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I tried the thin kerf blade route on my table saw and the plasticized wood didn't like it. The wider cuts caused uneven bending around a corner. I actually had much better luck with kerfs made on my band saw. It was good to try both though. i wanted to be sure of my approach before I dove into the project.
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That doesn't surprise me. Of course I don't know the product but the thinner the cut for an operation like this, the better.
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That doesn't surprise me. Of course I don't know the product but the thinner the cut for an operation like this, the better.
Yep, with the wider kerfs, the wood buckles on the top at each kerf when you bend it. It doesn't with the thin cuts. This is something you don't see with non-plasticized wood.
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Well, after messing with the short test strips, I was concerned this stuff wouldn't work. But, it did, to my pleasure and surprise. I set everything up with my band saw first: depth stop and ruler. I cut my kerfs half way through, 2mm apart. Worked perfectly. Bending the wood around the form was more than easy. I was really surprised. It took me less than 40 minutes to do the entire thing: measuring, cutting, bending, doing some more cutting, and more bending. I am impressed with the way this stuff responds.
My one big concern was the wood, due to its length and thickness, wants to bow up on the ends. By clamping it over night in a reverse bow, most of it was gone and I could work the rest out while going around the form.
Here are some shots:
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0101_zpsa55b7e90.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0101_zpsa55b7e90.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0105_zps553890c3.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0105_zps553890c3.jpg.html)
Having a form handy helped with some pre-bending
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0103_zpse78737dd.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0103_zpse78737dd.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0110_zpsecbda12a.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0110_zpsecbda12a.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0108_zps8866c196.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0108_zps8866c196.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0109_zps6345fc2f.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0109_zps6345fc2f.jpg.html)
More pics in next post............
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And finally................
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0111_zps8964e526.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0111_zps8964e526.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0114_zps7a6edbcf.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0114_zps7a6edbcf.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0113_zps0138732b.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0113_zps0138732b.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0107_zpsc2e386a8.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0107_zpsc2e386a8.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0112_zps86494b2a.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0112_zps86494b2a.jpg.html)
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I nominate Bill for the new title of "Uberclampenfuhrer." :mrgreen:
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I accept!
The wood and form are now baking in a makeshift styrofoam box I made with an oil based heater inside. Around 100 degrees for a night should cure the wood properly.
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Nice clamping job on the horns.
Overall, proof that you can never have too many clamps.
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Nice clamping job on the horns.
Overall, proof that you can never have too many clamps.
Thanks Dave. It worked out better than I could have imagined. It will be fun taking it out of the form tomorrow and gluing the bottom on.
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Did somebody say... Clampett...! :o
(https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTES2Xkd7dULPHXYFa_JMGNVcTY7ZtDzZvF7PIDmbloE6yVHY1Y)
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Did somebody say... Clampett...! :o
(https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTES2Xkd7dULPHXYFa_JMGNVcTY7ZtDzZvF7PIDmbloE6yVHY1Y)
Just call me Jed! Weeeee doggies!
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Well, these were the "best of times and worst of times" this morning. I took the form out of the oven and the bent wood turned out just about perfect. I really didn't see anything amiss. So, I took the wood and glued it onto the back sound board. All went well!
Then, I picked up the second piece of bendable wood I had ordered. It's maple as I wanted to try both mahogany and maple to compare. Bottom line, I hated bending the maple. Much stiffer and really mean to work with. It's about 90-95% bent the way I want it. I won't be trying the maple again, too much hassle!
Overall, I would use the mahogany again. I need to compare cost, effort and convenience between the bent wood sides vs. the routed out cavities. I have to admit the bent wood is unique and really going to look nice. However, with shipping, two strips, enough for two basses, cost $187 with shipping. I can carve a bass for for a lot less! Carbide router bits last a long time!!! The problem with carving is the mess it makes and the time. So, lots to think about on my days off!
Here's my makeshift oven. Not at all sophisticated!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0115_zpsf0b84fb8.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0115_zpsf0b84fb8.jpg.html)
Here's the heater. Full on it kept the swisscheese oven around 95-100 degrees.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0117_zps7788a6f5.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0117_zps7788a6f5.jpg.html)
Here's the wood with clamps removed. Pretty nice! Stays put.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0118_zps33176826.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0118_zps33176826.jpg.html)
Tada!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0119_zpsaae9115c.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0119_zpsaae9115c.jpg.html)
I clamped it around another form so I could glue on the bottom sound board without it moving.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0120_zps026c9be4.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0120_zps026c9be4.jpg.html)
Here's the cherry top, I have another just like it for the back.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0121_zps07799989.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0121_zps07799989.jpg.html)
The bottom's all glued up and will get the center block installed and top glued on tomorrow or over the weekend.
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It did come out nice. But it's hard to justify that kind of material cost unless you plan to sell these up in the Alembic or Fodera price range.
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Hey Doc, I have a thought/suggestion in regards to routing the bodies out. Have you considered prepping your blank but instead of hollowing out the body and leaving a back why not just use a jig saw or a scroll saw and just cut the guts out of it with a jig or scroll saw leaving a 3/8" perimeter of wood? This would be fairly close to what you are doing with the $$$$ bendy wood. You then just glue on your top and bottom. This would a be a lot faster than routing and way cheaper than the miracle wood option - you could even leave a center block with very little trouble. Depending on the species and dimensions you could probably do this for less than $25 per body.
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Hey Doc, I have a thought/suggestion in regards to routing the bodies out. Have you considered prepping your blank but instead of hollowing out the body and leaving a back why not just use a jig saw or a scroll saw and just cut the guts out of it with a jig or scroll saw leaving a 3/8" perimeter of wood? This would be fairly close to what you are doing with the $$$$ bendy wood. You then just glue on your top and bottom. This would a be a lot faster than routing and way cheaper than the miracle wood option - you could even leave a center block with very little trouble. Depending on the species and dimensions you could probably do this for less than $25 per body.
This is how I did my 4005 clone. You read my mind! I just might go back to that.
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It did come out nice. But it's hard to justify that kind of material cost unless you plan to sell these up in the Alembic or Fodera price range.
I agree. The mahogany bass will probably end up as mine!
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This is how I did my 4005 clone. You read my mind! I just might go back to that.
Yup, and you could make yourself a template and use one those snazzy spiral up/down cut bearing guided combo bits and and it would clean up right nice.
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Yup, and you could make yourself a template and use one those snazzy spiral up/down cut bearing guided combo bits and and it would clean up right nice.
Thinking the same thing. Template on a router table for cleanp.
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Thinking the same thing. Template on a router table for cleanp.
Yeah, I have a bunch of those carbide compression router bits. I'll make some final decisions after I finish the 3 basses I have hanging now!
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Well, I hate to say it, but the bass turned out great. It is so tempting. I think I'm going to keep this method in mind for a higher end model, maybe something I could do for folks with plenty of money to blow!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0123_zpsde44e8f4.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0123_zpsde44e8f4.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0124_zpsb85707f8.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/Bendable%20Wood/DSCN0124_zpsb85707f8.jpg.html)
The center block/neck pocket extension goes in next. The gap at the heel with disappear when I rout it out for the block/heel wood.
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Der Uberclampenfuhrer does beautiful work!
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Der Uberclampenfuhrer does beautiful work!
Ya, Danke!
I did some research on bending my own sides using steam and everything I found basically said I can't do it with the tight radius on the horns. Makes sense. I'd consider building the steam cab and presses if I thought it might work. I'm really fond of the hollow body design, as costly and impractical as it is!!!
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Ya, Danke!
I did some research on bending my own sides using steam and everything I found basically said I can't do it with the tight radius on the horns. Makes sense. I'd consider building the steam cab and presses if I thought it might work. I'm really fond of the hollow body design, as costly and impractical as it is!!!
If you can find some air dried wood I'm willing to bet you could though you would have to use compression straps on the outside radius' on the horns. Everything I've read says to expect a certain percentage of failure on those really bends though. Even with the cost of air dried wood you might be fifteen cents on the dollar compared to the bendy wood.
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Good points. I'll have to investigate air-dried 1/8" or so guitar grade wood.
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Resaw some scraps and try bending with a hot pipe.
It takes a few tries to begin to feel it wood but it is not difficult.
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In your neck of the woods it may be fairly easy to find someone who has cut some wood and stickered it to dry. Maple shouldn't be a problem - mahogany may hard to find non kiln dried.
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Actully there is a nice lumber yard locally that specializes in hardwoods but their prices are ridiculous and they are a bunch of snobby asses. That comes from being the only supplier within 15 counties. I hate going there. I can find body wood cheaper online at Rockler than there. Go figure! So, I have some thinking to do.
If I had a better band saw, I could resaw thick maple myself. Something to think about.
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I found these guys right off the bat when I searched for " air dried lumber" They seem to have a good selection of everything and there prices are competitive as well.
http://www.stonesriverhardwoods.com/air-dried-wood
That really blows that you are right in the hub of hardwood country and you have only one supplier. I guess I'm spoiled as we have two good suppliers here in town.
A 14" band saw, 1 HP, Jet or Delta, with a lift kit would get you all of the resaw capacity you need. Also, Grizzly has really come up in the world and I would seriously consider one of their saws first.
Regardless, your builds are looking fantastic and I'm seriously jealous that you have the time and space to do it.
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At this stage, I have developed a good system for doing a solid body, a chambered body and now a hollow body with minimal extra investment of time and money. Since I will be doing this part time for the next couple years, I need to keep the processes simple and not too time intensive. Both for economy of time and effort on my part. I might take to bending wood when I am fully retired. It looks like fun and I enjoy doing things myself. I'd also like to build my own necks from scratch as I've done in the past on my pet projects. Right now, I realized, I don't have enough hours in the day to do it all. So, I'll do what I can with the time I have.
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Never mind! No sooner do you say "never" then something pops up. An old chum of mine from the Refinishing forum just told me an really easy way to build the sides of a hollow body. He used to build beautiful Gretsch clones, man they were beautiful. Here's how he did the sides: 3 pieces of veneer cut to size, spray them with Super Soft wood softener, spread glue on the veneer and create a 3 piece laminate then bend around your form. Sounds messy, but it is very cost effective and I can't wait to try it. Next week we'll give it a shot! I'll have to build some different style forms.
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No harm giving it a try, you may decide it's better.
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Agreed, sounds a like cost effective alternative. Please post pictures :)
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At this stage, I have developed a good system for doing a solid body, a chambered body and now a hollow body with minimal extra investment of time and money. Since I will be doing this part time for the next couple years, I need to keep the processes simple and not too time intensive. Both for economy of time and effort on my part. I might take to bending wood when I am fully retired. It looks like fun and I enjoy doing things myself. I'd also like to build my own necks from scratch as I've done in the past on my pet projects. Right now, I realized, I don't have enough hours in the day to do it all. So, I'll do what I can with the time I have.
So...how thick do the sides end up?
I was thinking about that sort of glue up for the EB2 I never started.
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So...how thick do the sides end up?
I was thinking about that sort of glue up for the EB2 I never started.
You use .020 veneer in three layers. It's not all that thick, but it is strong once constructed. I'm gonna try it in the next week. I'll post pics as I go.
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Please do this is going to be very interesting!
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Please do this is going to be very interesting!
Will do. I might put it off for a few weeks to get my 3 current basses finished and then move on to the veneer experiment. I'm starting to get myself overwhelmed in the shop again! I do this all the time. I'm overbooked but I love it anyway!
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Got the center block cut and fitted. It was 1/4" short (height), so I glued a piece on top to level it out. Got the neck heel ready for trimming too. I'm thinking this bass will be hard to sell if it turns out as expected. Might have to keep it for me!! 8)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0126_zps5281b2b7.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0126_zps5281b2b7.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0127_zps14b6fb65.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0127_zps14b6fb65.jpg.html)
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(http://www.stripersonline.com/content/type/61/id/1678027/flags/LL)
Powerful, the Dark Side is...
but...
Resistance, is futile...
(ah... nothing like mixing the genres...) :mrgreen:
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That's fine. Just relax, listen to your inner urgings. Don't fight it,you'll just hurt yourself...... 8)
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I trimmed the top so the excess is minimal. My spool clamps work best when they can fit snug against the body. Also did the initial contour on the neck heel. This neck (special order from Carvin) will be set, angled headstock with heretofore undesigned docbass pattern. Won't get much done on it this weekend, lots of socializing going on!
Since this bass is pretty much hollow, it will probably get the 2 f-hole treatment so I don't have to do a control cavity.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0129_zps7d347a1c.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0129_zps7d347a1c.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0128_zpsfda0d66b.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0128_zpsfda0d66b.jpg.html)
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Is this a Carvin through neck that you're modifying to be a set neck? Or do they allow special ordering a shorter neck?
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I'm just adapting their bolt on version.
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Working on a headstock design for my basses. After I use up the Fender style necks I have laying around, this will be what I use. I'll post a pic soon. It's sort of a Rickenguilder design. ;)
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Here it is. Front then back.......I'm a fan of the narrow waist and large head, so I thought what the heck!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0131_zpsc4a887b1.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0131_zpsc4a887b1.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0132_zps2f744d0c.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0132_zps2f744d0c.jpg.html)
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I like it.
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So do I.
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Me too. Looks great.
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Count me as another fan.
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I like it too.
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looks good, Dr!
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I like it as well. Are you going to do any binding on these?
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Thanks everyone!
As for binding, I am not doing it on the two solid ones. I might on this semi-hollow one. It's such a pain in the butt to do. We'll see.
Today I am cutting f-holes before I glue the top on.
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Here's the f-holes and control holes drilled out and top glued on. Since this is hollow, I didn't want t do a pick guard for control access. The f-holes will do. I'll do the pickup rout tomorrow and won't rout the neck heel until I receive the neck on a week or two. I always measure new necks. When manufacturers say they are "Fender" replacements, they rarely are the same and I end up making my own templates!
The pink paper taped to the back of the f-holes is a trick I learned from a Guild I once had. It keeps the paint out of the inside of the body and comes off very easily when you are finished spraying.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0133_zpsa96fdd94.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0133_zpsa96fdd94.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0134_zpsddac2e19.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0134_zpsddac2e19.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0135_zps1dfce778.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0135_zps1dfce778.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0136_zpsfc1e1004.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0136_zpsfc1e1004.jpg.html)
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Here's the f-holes and control holes drilled out and top glued on. Since this is hollow, I didn't want t do a pick guard for control access. The f-holes will do. I'll do the pickup rout tomorrow and won't rout the neck heel until I receive the neck on a week or two. I always measure new necks. When manufacturers say they are "Fender" replacements, they rarely are the same and I end up making my own templates!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0136_zpsfc1e1004.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0136_zpsfc1e1004.jpg.html)
And that is why I awarded him the title of Herr Uberclampenfuhrer. Best (and most creative) clamping setups ever! I am in awe.
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Thank you Al! My motto is, if it doesn't move, clamp it! BTW, I actually use a couple small pieces of plywood under the center clamps to distribute the pressure. This set up is the initial pass before finishing touches.
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While waiting for the hollow body to dry, I routed the f-holes in one of the semi-solid bodies. I almost forgot I did put chambers in this one! So, my f-holes are routed and they look good to me. Used my Daisy pin router arm and a template. Worked well, but it is still off by a few thousands of an inch. Still working on the alignment. Not that critical for these little things, but more so for edges or neck pockets. It's always something!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0137_zpsf4fb9b83.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0137_zpsf4fb9b83.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0138_zpsfe880a71.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0138_zpsfe880a71.jpg.html)
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Damn, it's gonna be hard to sell these basses. I'm liking them all!
Anyway, a word of advice. I use the Stew-Mac double-sided tape for sticking templates to bodies for routing. It works well MOST of the time. But, if the surface is at all dusty or uneven, the tape lets go in the middle of routing. Argh!!!! So, I always tape the edges of the template to be sure. It's happened to me more than once!!!! :-[
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While waiting for the hollow body to dry, I routed the f-holes in one of the semi-solid bodies. I almost forgot I did put chambers in this one! So, my f-holes are routed and they look good to me. Used my Daisy pin router arm and a template. Worked well, but it is still off by a few thousands of an inch. Still working on the alignment. Not that critical for these little things, but more so for edges or neck pockets. It's always something!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0137_zpsf4fb9b83.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0137_zpsf4fb9b83.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0138_zpsfe880a71.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0138_zpsfe880a71.jpg.html)
I really like the F-holes on that one Doc!!!!
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I never realised there was an inset to the sides... that's really different, and in a good way...
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Damn, it's gonna be hard to sell these basses. I'm liking them all!
Anyway, a word of advice. I use the Stew-Mac double-sided tape for sticking templates to bodies for routing. It works well MOST of the time. But, if the surface is at all dusty or uneven, the tape lets go in the middle of routing. Argh!!!! So, I always tape the edges of the template to be sure. It's happened to me more than once!!!! :-[
I've always used double sided carpet tape that I pick up at the big box stores - sticks great and is cheap to boot. I've never had a failure with it.
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What pickup will you be using?
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I never realised there was an inset to the sides... that's really different, and in a good way...
Oops, that's an optical dillusion. That's the template peeking out from underneath.
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I really like the F-holes on that one Doc!!!!
Thanks! It was just a chance idea that came out of nowhere. I really like the look too.
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I've always used double sided carpet tape that I pick up at the big box stores - sticks great and is cheap to boot. I've never had a failure with it.
Yeah, it's time to try something else. I'll give that a shot.
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What pickup will you be using?
Boy Dave, you know how to ask the tough question. I have a couple TB plus bass pups in the LP mounts, I was thinking one of those. I want something bassy. There's alway TV pups, which i like. I was even thinking about Curtiss's DS remake, but it's pricey. So, the answer is, I'm still thinking about it.
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Yeah, it's time to try something else. I'll give that a shot.
I also use carpet tape when I can't use drywall screws to attach a template. Ace hardware has it.
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I also use carpet tape when I can't use drywall screws to attach a template. Ace hardware has it.
Thanks, I think it's a good idea. I'm not overly impressed with the Stew Mac stuff. I did use screws the other day where they wouldn't show, that was a really nice way to go, too. Thanks Carlo.
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Thanks, I think it's a good idea. I'm not overly impressed with the Stew Mac stuff. I did use screws the other day where they wouldn't show, that was a really nice way to go, too. Thanks Carlo.
You're welcome, Bill. I used tape to cut a pickup route in a pick guard yesterday, it always makes me nervous!
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I'm sanding the edges and top/bottom of the hollow body now. Found a couple indentations on the edge of the bendable wood caused by straps used for shipping. One more reason I don't think I'll use it again. It's good to work with, but there are too many minuses mounting up.
I've made the decision to do my next round of basses using the routed out slab, like a Midtown. It's messy to create but cost effective and I like the result.
When I have more time, I will try the building sides using veneer technique. But that's another time!
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Well, you tried. Better to make a decision about it now than regret it later.
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Well, you tried. Better to make a decision about it now than regret it later.
I do like trying new things! If I lived close by and could pick the stuff up myself, I'd use it again. The $37 shipping is a real deterrent, too. Also, I don't think the bendability has a very long shelf life.
Time to fire up the router table!!! ;)
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(http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01941/fischer-port_1941958f.jpg) :mrgreen:
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I do like trying new things! If I lived close by and could pick the stuff up myself, I'd use it again. The $37 shipping is a real deterrent, too. Also, I don't think the bendability has a very long shelf life.
Time to fire up the router table!!! ;)
Couple of thoughts: Have you tried steaming the dents out? If the fibers are not broken this usually will correct the damage. As for the routing - do you hog out most of the waste with a forstner bit at the drill press first?
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Couple of thoughts: Have you tried steaming the dents out? If the fibers are not broken this usually will correct the damage. As for the routing - do you hog out most of the waste with a forstner bit at the drill press first?
No, I haven't steamed the dents yet. I wanted to sand the sides down first to decrease the depth of the dents. I've used my soldering iron and a wet rag before on mahogany and it is typically pretty responsive to the wet heat.
Yes, I used to just rout the whole thing but it creates a lot of heat on the bit. A 1.5 or 2" Forster bit really clears things out and makes routing easier.
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Yeah, no matter how careful I try to be I always wind up denting something - I have an old steam iron that I keep on hand to correct my screw ups.
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Yeah, no matter how careful I try to be I always wind up denting something - I have an old steam iron that I keep on hand to correct my screw ups.
Me too! The older I get, the more I swing my projects into a bench or light fixture. Geez, it's hell gettin' old but it beats the crap out of the alternative!!!
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Got back on the all maple bass. Neck rout done, drilling holes for the bridge abd will rout the control cavity today. I might just glue this neck in and dispense with the screws.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0139_zps1ea8e39f.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0139_zps1ea8e39f.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0140_zpsf2182a78.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0140_zpsf2182a78.jpg.html)
Got the hollow body top trimmed and sanded. Going to stream out the dents if I have time today. Now just waiting for the Carvin neck to arrive in a week or so. I'll put it aside till then.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0141_zpsf573550e.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0141_zpsf573550e.jpg.html)
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I wanna hear one of their snares! Imagine doing entire drum kits out of bent wood; talk about hearing the differences in tonewood!
This sort of thing actually exists. I came across a few such makers when researching what kit to buy a few years back but obviously they were out of my league price-wise. In addition to that, there's a bunch of guys doing stave shelled kits (which don't apeal to me) and even one doing proper solid (i.e. hollowed out logs). I'd love a solid maho kit, but that's so wasteful and expensive. Then there's this dude (http://www.heartwooddrums.com/drums.html):
(http://www.heartwooddrums.com/images/279_060207_12291.jpg)
(http://www.heartwooddrums.com/images/279_101_2533.JPG)
I do have a solid maho Djembe (got it up the hill in Montreal from one of the old African dudes that sit up there carving the things during the Sunday drum circle hippie fest thing) and it is really nice. Wish I had the cash for a slightly bigger one at the time.
Anyway, love the way that hollowbody is shaping up DrB!
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This sort of thing actually exists. I came across a few such makers when researching what kit to buy a few years back but obviously they were out of my league price-wise. In addition to that, there's a bunch of guys doing stave shelled kits (which don't apeal to me) and even one doing proper solid (i.e. hollowed out logs). I'd love a solid maho kit, but that's so wasteful and expensive. Then there's this dude (http://www.heartwooddrums.com/drums.html):
I do have a solid maho Djembe (got it up the hill in Montreal from one of the old African dudes that sit up there carving the things during the Sunday drum circle hippie fest thing) and it is really nice. Wish I had the cash for a slightly bigger one at the time.
Anyway, love the way that hollowbody is shaping up DrB!
Well that's cool! Not much wasted wood in those. Thanks for the kind words. It's one that might stay around the house for awhile.
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Hey guys, I got an idea the other day about the solid body model I'm working on. How do you think it would look if I did faux f-holes (the two smaller ones) in the upper bout? I think it would be cool looking and just cosmetic since it's a solid body.
Just wondering...............
This is the one............
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0140_zpsf2182a78.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0140_zpsf2182a78.jpg.html)
Here's how they look in a chambered model.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0137_zpsf4fb9b83.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0137_zpsf4fb9b83.jpg.html)
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All very cool!!
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I like it without the f-holes better.
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would it be any use for you putting one above the pickup to anchor your thumb in?
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I like it without the f-holes better.
I'm not surprised. Less is more!
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would it be any use for you putting one above the pickup to anchor your thumb in?
That could work, I didn't think of that.
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Hey, I got some really good news yesterday. On a whim, I contacted Eden guitars about their bass necks. I asked if they could make a Fender spec neck (which they do already) but with an angled paddle headstock. Guess what, they said they could! The prototype is due next week or so. This is exactly what I was looking for as I needed it for my 2+2 design. Their prices are very reasonable and I'll know the final damage after the prototype is finished. A minimum order of 6 is required and I think that's very reasonable too!
So, I'm really looking forward to a standardized neck for my projects. That will make things so much easier and cost effective. More on this as things roll out!
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I haven't done much on my basses. I'm waiting for Eden to produce the necks I need. Rather than use the Fender style necks I have lying around, I'd rather have one neck template/process for all of my basses. They told me yesterday that they are setting up production and the first ones should be ready in a month. We'll see! I'm ready. I have 4 bodies ready to go and two more I'll finish up in a week or two.
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That's very cool. 6 piece minimum is great!
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Are you talking about Eden, the guitar parts company from Hong Kong, or the US company Edenhaus (B. Hefner) in California?
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Are you talking about Eden, the guitar parts company from Hong Kong, or the US company Edenhaus (B. Hefner) in California?
Allen Eden. In California, but the plant is in China. I think Carlo has visited it.
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That's very cool. 6 piece minimum is great!
The last note I got from them hinted that they might be putting them up on eBay so you could buy one at a time. A good plan I think.
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Allen Eden. In California, but the plant is in China. I think Carlo has visited it.
If that's the Eden at diyguitars.net you ought to be very careful.
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I don't know if there's a link between the Aussie and California businesses. Maybe Carlo would know. Paging Carlo....................
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I visited their just-moved-into warehouse around 2006, it gave me the distinct feeling Eden is a middleman. Lots of stuff has changed in China since then.
I'd buy one neck but not six without visiting the actual factory that makes the necks. The 2 Eden necks I have are satisfactory. Looking at their website the ones they are selling now seem to be actual 21 fret necks, not 20 with an overhanging board. To me that says different supplier. It's very common with China companies. Could be good, bad or neither.
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a QC drip-feed to be sure...
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a QC drip-feed to be sure...
Yeah, but unlike GM theirs is improving.
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I'm gonna try one, just to see. Since they are going up on eBay when ready, I can get one and check it out.