1967 Guild Starfire restore

[shadowcastaz]

I shoulda been a priest!........nah!

[drbassman]

I shoulda been a priest!........nah!

Ah yes, Father Shadow!   

[gweimer]

The thing I love about disasters is the fact that you no longer have to worry about vintage integrity.  You have the freedom to do what you want on any level.

[shadowcastaz]

Lime and pink burst! Im on like a Ho on a hundred!Anodized orange tuners and a black bridge.

[shadowcastaz]

All patched and trimmed. Now the thumb sanding begins.

[drbassman]

Very nice! How's the grain look in terms of matching?  I always find that's the real pain on a job like this.

[shadowcastaz]

Its ok..where the 2 meet In going to put a drop of crazy glue as I sand to fill a void if there is one. Then grain fill the patch (prob before i sand) and see then what happens . The danger of course is sanding through the old mahog and creating the problem again.Then Im gonna fool around with some test oieces  on the color. I gave an old mahog beater Im going to scab on some veneer  and  hit it w dye.I can make it opaque but I want the grain to show thru. I would never try to patch this amount and do a clear or light finish . Id stare at the mismatch all the time.

[drbassman]

Makes sense.  Post a close up of the result.

[bostonguitarrepair]

I think you're going to have to subtly stain the patches - with some red in there it looks - so that the base color matches.  The transparent green is a pretty dark color though and I bet it will obscure a lot of the differences. 

I'd use a darker grain filler so that the grain is visible through the darkish green tint -  ideally the filled grain should look like little black dots under the green finish.  But make sure any join lines are filled before applying the filler - cuz the filler will enhance those lines too otherwise.

Maybe this is all stating the obvious.

Krishna

[uwe]

Now that is one worthy resurrection. You'll go to Guild heaven for it no doubt.

Uwe

[drbassman]

Yes he will!  This is the toughest type of woodworking in my estimation.  Repairing sand throughs like this is a real challenge.  If it were me, I would have been tempted to take the easy way out and fill as best as possible and paint it a solid color.  I give Mike a lot of credit for tackling this one.

[shadowcastaz]

Back,not done fixin,


top with stain and  grain filler. gonna sand tonight I hope

Im gonna have to decide on opaque green or a natural reddish  finish ,that red residue is  a PIA!

[Barklessdog]

Wow, that's looking really good!


You are a brave soul on this one.

[drbassman]

Looking good!  I'm stripping my Guild now and tried chemicals on a section and the black residue bled into the maple a little, so I'm doing the rest with sand paper.  Chemicals are great, but they can create more problems than they solve!

[bostonguitarrepair]

Back,not done fixin,


top with stain and  grain filler. gonna sand tonight I hope

Im gonna have to decide on opaque green or a natural reddish  finish ,that red residue is  a PIA!

You need to get all that grain filler off the SURFACE of the wood - its a lot of hand sanding - I used a small rubber teardrop cross section sanding form I got at Rockler and it worked well.  I think it will look very good once you're done sanding off the excess filler. This looks almost exactly like what I went through with the Starfire I redid natural - see the archives or my website for pics of that process.

You will not get the red out of the end grain on the neck nor the sides - been there and tried that - as popeye would say "Imposski-bill!!!".