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Topics - Granny Gremlin

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Gibson Basses / It's in my back yard and it's killing me
« on: August 30, 2017, 12:44:59 PM »
local guy has this for sale:

.... but his price is CA$3.8k, which despite the vintage and the (apparently) immaculate condition, still seems rather high (currently approx US$3k).

Le sigh.

Rickenbacker Basses / Seller: first Ric bass ever made
« on: August 30, 2017, 09:25:06 AM »

In case y'all can't see that:

"VERY good condition and ALL original. The 4000 series basses are rare birds indeed.
neck through construction, cresting wave headstock, cresting wave body, finished Padouk fingerboard, 33-1/2" scale, 20 frets, Grover sealed back machine heads, combination tailpiece/bridge assembly with string mutes.

This bass is the first bass model that Rickenbacker produced. "

CA$3300 shipped (within Canada).  Dude's local to me (also has a beauty 66 Gibson EB2 that I can't afford and is a bit on the pricey side).

I'm skeptical, but hardly an expert.

Bill's Shop: Projects, Mods & Repairs / Random Project
« on: August 29, 2017, 06:39:21 AM »
Someone on another forum, out of the blue (we had a single PM convro once a few months back) just offered me a free project bass (local so no shipping required).  Of course I accepted, so we'll see what happens.

I know nothing about it, aside from it being routed for a P/J set and having dual truss rods.

Popcorn time.

The Bass Zone / Interesting bass comparison
« on: August 21, 2017, 02:37:16 PM »

Not perfect, but interesting nonetheless and probably pretty helpful to the kids.  Personally I think it would be improved by at least stating what settings (pup if there's a choice; where da tone knob at) were used, and I'm not sure it was fair to use a 70s P but a 2010 Tbird, but that might be hard to improve upon for most mortals.

Fingerstyle, it was hands down Ric or Tbird, with honorable mentions to the Stingray and surprisingly, the thumb.   I don't remember Ps sounding that bad (relative to my personal tastes of course); musta had the tone wide open.

With a pick the Thumb just sucked; again Ric or Tbird for the win, though the P was back in the game.

(I skipped they whole slap section)

Didn't make me reconsider my dislike of J tone at all.

The Outpost Cafe / Skol
« on: June 23, 2017, 08:27:48 AM »
So, it's that time again - it's been about 5 years so the fam is heading to Poland (it'll be my daughter's first time, but I doubt my son remembers much).  Since my folks will be there for the first bit as well, we were going to dump the kids and take off on a secondary trip without them.  The first idea was somewhere Mediterranean, but then my wife got nervous about being that far from the kids (no direct flights) so.... Copenhagen, where she has some family. 

Now I don't remember if any of the brothers are actually from there, but I know some of you have been there, so what's the scoop?

- cool gear shops (used rather than new stuff; pawn shops even)
- best tartare steak (I have this habit of trying a tartare everywhere I go, and apparently it is a thing in Danish cuisine - I also look forward to the stinky fish)?  Or eatieries generally.
- anything else?

We're only there for a few days.  Staying in Christianshavn.

Gibson Basses / EB minibucker info needed
« on: May 25, 2017, 12:11:10 PM »
Any of youze know if anyone makes a (good) copy of these?

Failing that, do we know anything about the construction of them, i.e. are they a 4 pole version of the guitar minibucker or a sidewinder like 70s F/TBirds or what?  I know they're 6.6-7.7(ish) K depending on year.He's hoping he can ask one of the pup makers he knows to wind one up. 

A guy I know needs one and I won't sell him mine

Local dude claims "It's a 1972-1973 Marshall 2054 (or possibly 2054B), Picture Frame Cabinet, loaded with a vintage 15" 250w/8 ohms Celestion Powercel speaker" and wants C$900 for it (including a second spare drive unit) which seems fairish given rarity - especially of the  drive units, at least here in NA - but I have no idea really.  Too rich for my blood in any case and I have enough cabs, but I am very curious - anybody tried one of these ever?  I'd never even heard of them before.


Recovered with carpet and no original grilles, but still think it's a good price since they're in very nice shape and the drivers have been upgraded to JBL E-140s (very heavy, but great speakers).  The one on ebay last week (it's been years since I saw one there) went for 205 (all original aside from the Black Widow speaker and one damaged corner with missing hardware) + shipping from Texas (which woulda been +85 for me, whch I was surprised at and almost upped my bid on it, but let it go in the end):

Jerry Jones, longhorn double neck - guitar and 6 string bass:

not sure if link will work (forum/dunno is classified are public):

Listed on craigslist Rochester/Buffalo but actually located in Niagara Falls, ON, Canada.

No price in the add, but I emailed the dude - he won't split the stack (sell the head only) so I'm out (like I was ever in, for what these things go for these days), but only wants US$2K - which is actually surprisingly good considering what just the heads go for these days (US$1.5 - 2K, though granted, demand may have been a tad inflated due to the whole Doom/Stoner guys getting into them in a religious way, but it looks like they succeeded in raising a lasting awareness of the awesomeness of these amps).

The Bass Zone / blasphemy-o-sound
« on: September 27, 2016, 01:56:29 PM »
Cliff Burton.  Playing a Ric.  Mudbucker in neck; J in bridge.  Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck.

Bass Amps & Effects / Instant postmodern Lemmy
« on: September 11, 2016, 12:18:50 PM »
Came across this in a local shop (went in to pick up a pair of vintage Altec 417s, but they were already gone).

Wasn't about to clear shit out the way to get a better pick, but the bottom cab is a 1x15.  Also much more grey IRL than beige as it looks in the pic. Figured it would go reeeeeeeeeeal nice with one of those limited edition Ric 4003 Noirs (  ;)

Bass Amps & Effects / 1 of 4 screen resistors dead - I have questions
« on: August 22, 2016, 08:23:37 AM »
So, I've been enjoying my new-to-me Sunn 1200s; sounds great and working mostly fine, but occasionally I get pops on transients.  Sounds like the signal cuts out for a micro-sec and comes back sort of thing.  Some jams no problem but once it was so bad that  I was worried about the speaker and switched heads.  This is after I took her to the tech for a once over which is frustrating.

Thought it was the mid boost switch as playing with it seemed to make noise in a related way.  But then I opened her up and after discharging the caps, cleaning/testing the switch, cleaning the pots while I was in there, I was about to close her up  and noticed this:

So one of the screen resistors (47Ohm 2W from what I can tell - the smaller wirewound Ohmites should be the 47Ohm 5W plate resistors, right? **), is cracked all the way though.  After touching it (one end totally moved, the other didn't) I can't get a continuity reading like on the other 3.  So it seems like it was holding together just by lead tension but loud transients would vibrate it open (which is why I thought it was the mid boost switch or surrounding circuit - it increases the signal amplitude making more/larger transients).  I told the tech about it when I took it to him so kinda disappointed like I said (granted I also told him that the reverb was sounding like a noisy radio which  turned out to be just dirty RCA connections, and I had tested the power tubes and one looked like gas/short but apparently it's fine, so he may have just thought I was a complete tit when he didn't hear the issue at obviously lower testing volumes).  Sometimes you just gotta get in there yourself I guess.

Anyway, I am wondering if I should replace all 4 so they match (I'm not sure I can get 2W carbon resistors locally/quickly), or just the one?  Does it matter?  If I am replacing all 4, is there a better type to go with (tolerance ignored for the moment) or stick to carbons?  I originally thought these were the plate resistors which are more critical, but I don't know much about these things.

Interesting note is that the tube which I thought might be bad was not the one connected to this dead resistor.  I am not sure if it was the tube working the other half of the wave or if it was the other one on the same side....  from a look around the chassis I am going with 1st one on the other side of the wave, but like I said not certain.

** the 1200s has the same power section as the 2000s -  schem here:

I argued, amongst other things, that it was a danger due to how it tends to drop limbs if you look at it funny. I provided documentation of previous incidents.

Then I got a new car last week (used, but barely).

Then we had a crazy storm last night.

I'm just glad that it wasn't worse (hard to tell from these pics, but the trunk fell straight down, hit the ground next to the car and then snapped over the car resting mostly on the fence , another tree and a phone line; 3-5 inches over and I'd need a new rear door; it also completely missed all windows including the panoramic sunroof), that it fell on my property only (4 neighbors and a public alley are in range of various parts of the tree; 1 of 4 main trunks came down; 20-30 feet long), and that nobody was hurt (it's a busy alley). Insurance will cover it all; no big deal, just a pain in the arse. The city arborist is going to get a terse email from me though.

Gibson Basses / problem with LoZ pups
« on: July 12, 2016, 08:27:14 AM »
Anybody else have an issue with the mounting bushings (brass, molded/embeded into the black resin pup cover) breaking off?  It's driving me nuts - the pup still works great but I've had to tape it down and can't adjust it.  The tape is now giving way so best case my treble side is stupid loud and worst case (when fretted a bit higher up the neck) the string is muted by the bridge pup.  Tried gluing them back but they keep breaking off again.  Driving me bonkers.

I can post pics eventually, but it requires some take-apart so not got to it yet.

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